The Koryo Tours Blog

Revolutionary Opera of the DPRK

By Daniel Levitsky, June 11th 2013.

 

Every revolutionary regime needs a master narrative. In the mid-1960s, President  Kim Il Sung’s son, General Kim Jong Il, was put in charge of party propaganda and agitation, a role that encouraged his growing interest in the arts, and especially in theatre and film. Under his enthusiastic tutelage, not only was Korean cinema revamped, renewed and made to glorify the activities of his father, but an entirely new type of live entertainment, the Korean revolutionary opera, was born. At a special party meeting at the Pyongyang Film Studios, held to inaugurate his son as the mentor of Korean filmmakers and artists, Kim Il Sung told his directors that Korean art (in all its forms) should depict and dramatize two great historical events above all: the anti-Japanese struggle of the 1930s, and the traumatic Korean War of 1950 to 1953. These themes not only lay at the heart of numerous historical films made in the DPRK between the mid-1960s and late 1980s, but also formed the heroic backdrop for the five great revolutionary operas of the early 1970s. All of these bore the stamp of Kim Jong Il in their combination of romantic, engaging plot and emphasis upon the Korean people’s harsh existence during the key formative years of the national liberation.

 

rev opera 6

In the 1960s, as the DPRK’s ideology matured and its infrastructure developed, increased confidence in its own capabilities led to the radical imposition of the ideology of Juche, or ‘self-reliance’. The ambitious, politically astute Kim Jong Il ensured that this meant all art forms, from painting to opera, would be made with the purpose of glorifying his father’s leadership of the country’s glorious struggles. This was a time of Korean historical epics, of intense, overpowering melodramas, many of which proved extremely popular as they allowed people to immerse themselves once again in the ecstatic sense of freedom that followed Japanese oppression, as well as in the horrific suffering of the more recent Korean War, with the cathartic reminder that it was over. Stories of lost children, grieving parents, and inspiring military and political leadership took them back to a time of emotional passion, of trauma and loss. But it also reminded them of ideas such as true comradeship in adversity, and of the chance to take vengeance upon brutal invaders and occupiers, thereby making it possible to rebuild their country anew.

 

rev opera 1

 

The revolutionary opera was a particularly dynamic medium through which to relate these tales and inculcate Korean audiences with a sense of Juche. Aiming to supersede the ‘anti-revolutionary’, aristocratic style of both European and traditional Korean opera, Kim Jong Il introduced several new Juche-based elements into these mass spectacles. They would contain songs sung in verses or stanzas, in the style of Korean folk ballads. More significantly, they made copious use of the pangchang. These off-stage solos, duets and choruses served several purposes; they narrated key parts of the story, projected a character’s inner voice and thoughts with particular revolutionary intensity, and set the dramatic mood and atmosphere of the tale. These new techniques rendered Korean revolutionary opera particularly accessible to a mass audience, jettisoning the alienating, distancing effect of traditional ‘static’ operatic performance and complementing the aims and role of Korean socialist cinema. Through pangchang, symbolic Korean historical characters could truly reach out from the stage to members of their audience, creating an especially strong link between the emotions of these revolutionary characters and the mood of their spectators. Featuring stirring music and a particularly passionate, grandiose style of performance, Korean revolutionary opera served to not only remind Koreans of the horrific experiences of their fellow countrymen forty years earlier, but to transfer a dramatic, patriotic spirit from the stage to the everyday lives and thoughts of those in the seats of the auditorium. Just as the torch of Juche ‘came to life’ in rarefied form through the power and theatricality of these performances,  so it would then continue to blaze in the streets, squares and grand buildings of Pyongyang and further afield as the spectators left the theatre to go about their daily lives. Revolutionary opera would thus be much more than an engaging stage performance; it would be an event, a moment where stirring revolutionary history and its characters met, and inspired, off-stage revolutionary life and its participants.

 

 

 

All five revolutionary operas, Sea of Blood, The Flower Girl, A True Daughter of the Party, Tell O’ The Forest and The Song of Mount Kumgang were made under leader Kim Jong Il’s guidance.  Set during either the period of Japanese occupation or that of the Korean War, they all exemplify the intense, melodramatic style of historical  revolutionary tale which was being promoted during the early 1970s. Sea of Blood, based on a story written by Kim Il Sung himself, was released as a film in 1969 and later adapted into the first revolutionary opera in 1971. Premiering at the Pyongyang Grand Theatre in the presence of President Kim Il Sung and Leader Kim Jong Il, it tells the story of an ordinary Korean mother who is converted to radicalism by the opinions of a political activist, and is then spurred on to revolutionary action by the dramatic deaths of her husband and son, both dedicated socialist activists. Replete with revolutionary romanticism and intense theatricality, Sea of Blood features expressive, emotive staging and an impressive sense of grandiosity. Carefully choreographed sequences, together with copious use of vivid lighting and music, show the mother’s reactions to the revolutionary activities and deaths of her relatives, her subsequent overthrow of local Japanese overlords, and her post-liberation appeals to the local masses. At one point the mother is listening to an old villager’s account of the anti-Japanese struggle of Kim’s guerrillas; when Kim’s name is pronounced, a wide smile appears on the mother’s face and the sun emerges from behind the clouds above her on the stage.

rev opera 4

 

The Flower Girl, also both released as a film and performed as a majestic revolutionary opera, and based on a work written by Kim Il Sung in the 1930s, is possibly one of the most important and widely seen Korean operas. It also set during the period of Japanese oppression. In its portrayal of the extreme suffering of its young heroine, as well as her subsequent liberation at the hands of her revolutionary brother, it serves to emphasise the vital nature of the Korean revolution. Through its uncompromising depiction of the cruel blinding of the heroine’s sister and the violent murder of her mother at the hands of their heartless Japanese landlords, the opera powerfully conveys the message that only with the fundamental social and political change brought by Kim Il-Sung’s revolutionary army can Koreans escape the drudgery and ignominy which they suffered in the years before 1945. The production is made even more immediate and vivid through the use of film projected onto a black backdrop depicting burning flames or roaring waves, natural elements used to convey particularly strong revolutionary pathos. All North Koreans will have seen this important opera, as well as its filmic version.

Not only did the powerful narratives of operas such as Sea of Blood and The Flower Girl enter the consciousness and shape the ideological worldview of their Korean spectators, but their heroes and heroines entered national folklore, further blurring the boundaries between stage and street. The facades of the Grand Theatres in Pyongyang and Hamhung are adorned with bright, dynamic murals depicting the heroines in key scenes from Sea of Blood and The Flower Girl. Both characters also appeared frequently on the covers of widely-read cultural magazines, while the heroine of the latter production featured on one of the most frequently used Korean banknotes, firmly establishing her revolutionary character as a part of Korean everyday life.

 

 

rev opera 9

Both the anti-Japanese struggle and the Korean War offered opportunities to show valiant combat and unflinching patriotism, and to embody the core values of the Korean revolutionary foundation myth in a single powerful narrative. This narrative evoked very real memories of the suffering experienced by the vast majority of Koreans. By the early 1970s, when the five revolutionary operas were conceived and staged, the artistic representation of Kim Il Sung’s heroic leadership and its transformative effects upon the long-suffering population of the DPRK had become the definitive story of the North Korean nation, past and present. The revolutionary operas played a large part in etching this message into the hearts and minds of millions of Koreans, the younger of whom remained as awestruck as their forebears had been by the real revolutionary events of the late 1940s and 1950s.

Images taken from ILLUSIVE UTOPIA: Theater, Film and Everyday Performance in North Korea by Suk-Young Kim (University of Michigan Press, 2010)

 

 

The Ryuyong vs The Shard

The infamous 105-storey Ryugyong hotel has often been compared to London’s Shard which opened up to visitors just this year. Following on from Koryo’s exclusive visit to the Ryugyong last September, I thought it only fitting that while in London last week I should pay a visit to the Shard and see how the 2 experiences compared.

Ryugyong IMG_3296

In terms of logistics, it is definitely easier to visit The Shard. Tickets are best ordered online from their website (I guess the Ryugyong website is still under construction). To visit the Ryugyong we had to get special invitation from the relevant authorities.

Ryugyong outside

Ryugyong, Pyongyang

Shard-outside

Shard, London

You have to take 2 separate lifts to the viewing level of The Shard – floor 69. To get there takes under 5 minutes (includes waiting time). To get to the viewing level of the Ryugyong (floor 95) took around 10 minutes in a construction elevator. I assume that once proper lifts are fitted it will be much faster!

So here are some pictures taken from the top of both – enjoy!

Looking east towards the Taedong River

Looking east towards the Taedong River

London Bridge

London Bridge

Looking up from lobby of Ryugyong

Looking up from lobby of Ryugyong

Looking up from top viewing level of Shard

Looking up from top viewing level of Shard

tower-block

Tower Blocks of Pyongyang

The Tower of London

The Tower of London

May Day Stadium

May Day Stadium

South of the Thames

South of the Thames

Korean War Museum

Korean War Museum

London Sunset

London Sunset

Flower Girl – Film screening by Koryo Cinema

Flower Girl

Flower Girl

1972, 132 mins

 

The Flower Girl is the only DPRK movie that can be considered to be at all well-known outside of the country as it is reasonably well known in China having been shown in cinemas and on television in the 1970s as well as performed on many occasions by visiting revolutionary opera troupes from North Korea. A great many older people and those who grew up during the Cultural Revolution in the PRC know all about this film and remember it fondly, as the representations of the miserable life of those living under oppressive and craven landlords in the 1930s during the period of Japanese occupation was a common theme in revolutionary China at the same time.

 

Most of the film depicts a series of utterly demoralizing events, but the heroine still perseveres with her attempts to find a better way for herself and her family. What makes this film even more significant to Koreans in the North is that it is adapted from a work written by Kim Il Sung in the 1930s and is considered a timeless classic whose message is as relevant now as at any time. Almost all North Koreas will have seen this movie and a large group statue exists at the entrance to the Pyongyang Film Studios depicting the DPRK’s Great Leader with the cast and crew of this very film, clearly establishing it as the most important movie ever made in North Korea.

 

In addition to being frequently shown as a movie this story is also the most popular of the five Revolutionary Operas in DPRK, and is performed frequently in Pyongyang and other cities around the country.

———————————————————
Screening Details:
 
(Next to Yashow Clothing Market/The Village in San Li Tun)

Date: Thursday June 6th, 2013
Time: Starts at 7:30PM  (19:30)
Film running time: 132min
Entrance: Free

To book: info@koryogroup.com

 

Koryo Cinema is brought you by Koryo Tours and Electric Shadows.

 

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Taste Test: DPRK Drinks!

By Eddie Provencher, May 2013.

 

Food tourism, as it is called, is growing. And people like myself, who aren’t picky eaters, put the sampling of local foods high on our list of things to do while traveling. I may be a ‘foodie’ but I don’t claim to have superior knowledge of food. I simply enjoy food and never miss the opportunity to try new things. That’s been true for me since childhood, according to my parents.

 

So when I got the chance to try some North Korea beverages, courtesy of Koryo Tours, of course I accepted. It started when I responded to a Facebook post (thank you VPN) by the company announcing a viewing of the movie “Centre Forward” which would include the serving and drinking of North Korean beer. I couldn’t make it to the screening so Simon over at Koryo Tours said I could come by the office to pick one up.

 

To my surprise and delight, Simon gave me not one beer, but two. And he gave me a cola. For free. Well, actually, I agreed to write a review of the drinks in exchange. Not a bad deal for me, in my opinion.

 

You can see the three bottles in the photo. From left to right they are Taedonggang Beer (대동강 맥주) 5.5% 640ml, Rakbaek Lager Beer (락백 연한 맥주) 4.5% 630ml, and Cold Spring Lemon Cider (랭천 레몬 사이다).

 

Delicious!

I sat down with a raging alcoholic friend to sample the beers. I figured if he didn’t like the beers, nobody would. We alternated shot glasses full of Taedonggang Beer and Rakbaek Lager Beer until we finished the bottles and came to some conclusions.

 

First, Taedonggang Beer beat Rakbaek Lager Beer in taste. That was a landslide decision. Second, when comparing these beers to their South Korean counterparts, Taedonggang Beer was something like a cross between Max and Hite. It’s the kind of beer that can stand alone. Rakbaek Lager Beer, on the other hand, was much lighter and more similar to South Korea’s Cass Beer. In fact, the big white letters on the bottle in the middle say 연한 맥주, or light beer in English. So it’s no secret. That doesn’t mean the beer isn’t good. If you know anything about Korean food, you know that light beer pairs well because it doesn’t try to compete with the barbeque meat and fermented veggie flavors.

 

An interesting thing to note about these North Korean beers is that they are not pasteurized. This means they have a shorter shelf life, maybe just 4 months from production. The voyage to other countries might render the beers undrinkable if not kept in perfect conditions, so you won’t find these beers too far from North Korea.

 

As for the Cold Spring Lemon Cider, I don’t usually drink colas. This one tasted like a non-alcoholic wine cooler. I didn’t try it, but in retrospect maybe I should have mixed some Korean soju in it to see if it could work as a mixer. A special feature of the bottle which underscores the fact that it is North Korean is that the word for cold spring is written in the North Korean style 랭천 and as opposed to the South Korean style of 냉천.

 

This beer tasting has whet my appetite for more. Apparently, there is another kind beer being served in the newly opened to non-Chinese foreigners North Korean border city of Sinuiju. Although this beer is only served in draft form and thus can only be had by a trip there.

 

Read Eddie’s blog here: http://tigersandmagpies.com/

Fancy a trip to Sinuiju? Check out our video of Simon’s recent trip there here:

July and Victory Day Holiday 2013

Victory Day Holiday and July 2013

What are your plans for this Summer? Embark on an adventure

July 27th 2013 is the biggest day of the North Korean calendar this year – it marks 60 years since the signing of the armistice agreement that put an end to active combat in the Korean War which had raged across the peninsula for the previous 3 years. North Korea sees the signing of the armistice as the culmination of a historic victory achieved against the world’s dominant military power and as a result the 60th anniversary of this occasion, known now as ‘Victory Day’ promises to be the biggest day of the year north of the 38th parallel.

Koryo Tours is offering a range of tours to suit all requirements over July 27th, if you haven’t been to North Korea before and want to experience the country at the height of its festivities then this is the time to go. If you’ve been with us before and want to go back to be there on a major occasion then we’d be glad to have you too – anyone who wants to be there over this massive holiday is invited to get in touch with us and we will get you on the tour of your life!

Here some of the highlights to look forward to over July 27th:

Arirang Mass Games 2013
July 22 – September 9
Arirang Mass Games – the biggest performance in the world returns in 2013, running several evenings per week from July 22nd. 100,000 performers in a 90 minute spectacular of gymnastics, propaganda, dance, unicycling, and an entireside of the giant May Day stadium used as a human video screen, with 20,000 people used as human pixels. Have a look at the additional information we have on this show at our website About Mass Games and watch the brief clip there for a little taste. This event truly has to be seen to be believed - there is literally nothing else like it anywhere else in the world!

 

Victory Day                

July 27th 2013 is the biggest day of the North Korean calendar this year

Victory Day Events – as with every other major DPRK holiday over the 2 decades we have been going to North Korea the exact events are held closely under wraps, however we have a strong track record in getting access to whatever is possible on that day itself. Many things can be expected such as Mass Dancing around the city (join in with the local population here, the moves can be learned very quickly), lining the routes of a military parade (as we did for the last one in April 2012, see some photos and a report of this online in our FLICKR account, any musical or theatrical performance that will be taking place to mark the occasion, sports events, and any other specially organised events for the day. We can promise you an utterly unique and unforgettable experience on Victory Day in North Korea this year!

Koryo Tours is offering the following group tours over the Victory Day Holiday:

 

Victory Day Tour 

Itinerary | July 25 – 30
Taking you around the highlights of the capital and the events of the big day  itself, as well as heading down to the DMZ and to the exhibition of gifts in  the  beautiful Mt Myohyang. There is also an option to extend the tour by 2  days to  visit the West coast city of Nampo

 

Victory Day City Break
Itinerary | July 27 – 30/31
Ideal for those short on time but wanting to get as much experience in  Asia’s  most enigmatic capital city. We’ll take you around the town that  Koryo Tours  has been exploring for decades, show you the highlights  and some hidden gems  too!
Mingling with the locals

A chance to mix with the average Pyongyangers

Mingling with the locals – Koryo Tours has always specialised in maximising contact between our travellers and the local population, it can be hard to find opportunities to mix with the average Pyongyangers but the bigger the holiday, the more the opportunities there are. So we’ll take you to parks, funfairs, sports events, walking the streets, local bars, etc in order to get as much contact as possible. This is one of the most rewarding parts of any tour; the simple humanising of us to them and them to us, whoever the them and us may be. Aside from remembering the stunning performances and unique experiences around the country this is what our tourists take home from their journey; the basic humanity of the people they meet along the way
If you would rather have us put together a bespoke tour just for you, or for a group of friends then we would of course be glad to do that too. Drop us a line atinfo@koryogroup.com and we can work together to combine our experience and your desires to tailor a tour just for you. If you have any unusual requests then let us know too, you never know what we can make happen!

 

If you can’t make it for Victory Day itself but still want to see the Mass Games then fear not! It is scheduled to run from July 22 – Sept 9 but as always we do expect it to be extended, perhaps into the middle of October. So have a look at our full list of group tours online at http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_groupTours.php and join us on a great adventure!

 

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Koryo Tours launches trips to Sinuiju

Sinuiju Tours

Koryo Tours this week saw years of effort pay off as the city of Sinuiju finally became accessible to western tourists. General Manager Simon Cockerell was the first western tourists to gain access to the city and his account of this journey can be found in our blog post: Koryo Tours first to visit North Korean border city of Sinuiju

Koryo Tours is now pleased to offer tourists the chance to visit Sinuiju as a daytrip from the Chinese border city of Dandong. We are offering a couple of group tours and the opportunities to visit on an independent basis. For full details please visit Sinuiju section on our website

We intend to offer Sinuiju extensions to our regular North Korea tours very soon too. We will update our website and mailing list when this becomes possible.

So if you’re looking for an exciting weekend break, or a day trip to another world then come along with the only DPRK travel experts around. We’ve worked long and hard to open up new parts of North Korea to tourists and we invite anyone wanting a new experience to get in contact with us on info@koryogroup.com or APPLY HERE

We look forward to hearing from you, just as you can look forward to an amazing journey!

 

The First Mini Golf Tournament in Pyongyang

Mini Golf in Pyongyang

The first contest around the brand-new 18 hole mini-golf course on the Rungna Island in Pyongyang featured 3 players, representing Koryo Tours and our local partner, and assorted hangers on from the course eager to see what would happen in this hard-fought contest. Final scores placed Koryo Tours director Nicholas Bonner as the winner but the other participants refused to deny claims that they had allowed him to win, either to have a quiet life, or to avoid a tantrum. The course is laid out nicely but is devilishly difficult to play, all the holes are made of metal and the slightly over-rubbery balls have no dimples at all so they do tend to roll to the side of every fairway thus making all but the first shot very hard to take. Additionally a couple of holes are basically hole-in-one or bust and require either a liberal approach to mulligans, or a great deal of luck on the first shot. So still some work to be done but a positive start has been made in bringing the international under-appreciated sport of mini-golf to Pyongyang.

Games cost 4 EUR each for tourists and the course itself is open every day apart from Monday – just ask your tour guide to take you there. No drinks available on the site but you can take your own if required. Score will be kept by one of the course staff who is not above being asked nicely to revise the result (anonymously alleged one of the players)

mini golf pyongyang

Koryo Tours first to visit North Korean border city of Sinuiju

Koryo Tours visited SinuijuOn May 20th Koryo Tour’s General Manager Simon Cockerell was invited to be the first western tourist to visit the North Korean border city of Sinuiju, located just 900 metres across the Yalu river from its Chinese counterpart Dandong Sinuiju is a strategically important city which sees a large amount of Chinese trade with the DPRK passing through its border points and has long been open for Chinese visitors to make day trips. However until just yesterday this was impossible for western tourists.

Koryo Tours has been working for many years to make it possible for non-Chinese tourists to visit the city but yesterday Simon crossed the border from Dandong into Sinuiju ” I have been trying to get to Sinuiju for the last ten years and have passed it countless times on the train from Pyongyang to Beijing (we were once stranded for an afternoon in Sinuiju in 2004 when the international train could not take us into Pyongyang) but this trip was the first proper tour and a highlight in my travels in the country. Really great people and a good bit of interaction with the guides and locals” 

We were very honoured to be thanked for all our hard work which made this possible by the DPRK tourism authorities in Pyongyang last Friday and by the local travel company in Sinuiju just yesterday. We hope that the opening of Sinuiju to western tourists continues the run of new sites for tourists to visit in North Korea, and will continue to push for greater access and more areas that visitors can go to.

Simon’s trip included all the main tourists sites such as the local revolutionary museum, statue of North Korean president Kim Il Sung, Art Gallery and Studio, local model kindergarten, a wander through a local park, a drive to the outlying southern section of the city, a visit to a secret local bar known only to Koryo Tours (a surprise to the local guide even!) and lunch at a restaurant on the Yalu river, directly across from Dandong, a view normally experienced the other way around. A selection of photos from the trip are included herein

Koryo Tours will be offering both day trips to Sinuiju from Dandong and optional extensions to all of our tours which depart from Pyongyang by train giving the maximum number of people the chance to experience this newly opening city. All details will be on our website as early as they can be and we look forward to experiencing this exciting new opportunity with you. Sinuiju is quite a different place to Pyongyang and most other cities around the DPRK – come with us to see why!

For all tour enquiries or media enquiries please contact us on info@koryogroup.com we look forward to hearing from you!

Koryo Tours | Sinuiju Koryo Tours | Sinuiju Koryo Tours | Sinuiju Koryo Tours | Sinuiju

 

 

 

 

Koryo Tours | SinuijuKoryo Tours | SinuijuKoryo Tours | SinuijuKoryo Tours | SinuijuKoryo Tours | Sinuijutn_IMG_8243Koryo Tours | Sinuiju

North Korea’s largest border city opening for tourists

Sinuiju - Koryo Tours

We are pleased to announce that after several years of pressure on the part of Koryo Tours it is about to become possible for western tourists to visit the North Korean city of Sinuiju, situated on the opposite side of the Yalu (Amnok) river from the Chinese border city of Dandong.

Sinuiju has long been open to day-trippers from China and many tens of thousands have made this trip, yet it has remained stubbornly closed almost all western tourists, a situation that is about to change.

Koryo Tours will be offering the most comprehensive tours to Sinuiju available, including day-trips from Dandong, overnight stays, extensions to our regular DPRK tours to enable people already travelling in North Korea to add on a day or two in Sinuiju to their trip, in short anything that is possible to do in this fascinating city we will offer

Full details will be available soon as we are currently putting together what we will offer to anyone interested in this unique trip. As always Koryo Tours will offer the most in-depth and detailed tour experience possible so we ask anyone interested to await further details and prepare for a very special trip!

A selection of photos from a previous Koryo Tours trip to Sinuiju can be found with this newsletter and Koryo Tours’ General Manager Simon Cockerell will be in Sinuiju next week to continue the discussions and tour arrangements which we have been working on for much of the last two decades


Visits to Sinuiju will include; the main square of Sinuiju with its bronze statue of DPRK President Kim Il Sung, Revolutionary Museum, local school and park, and so much more!!!

 

Koryo Tours has 20 years’ experience in operating tours to North Korea and is the recognised market leader and only true specialist in the field. For any media enquiries or interest in tours to Sinuiju please contact info@koryogroup.com or visit www.koryogroup.com for general information of all the tours we offer

IMG_0271 Sinuiju - Koryo Tours IMG_0252 Sinuiju - Koryo Tours Sinuiju - Koryo Tours Sinuiju - Koryo Tours Sinuiju - Koryo Tours Sinuiju - Koryo Tours

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Running With Koryo – Fun Run 2013

May First – a holiday for workers in many countries and the DPRK is no exception. May Day is a national holiday and possibly one of the few holidays in the DPRK with no social obligations for the citizens – it is simply a day off for them to do as they want. Parks are full of people out having picnics with family and friends, singing, dancing, playing games and so on. It is one of the best times of year for interaction with locals and each May Day we take tourists to the different parks in Pyongyang where they can take part in the celebrations – sometimes the tourists do this willingly, sometimes they need a little coercion – the Koreans are always enthusiastic for us to join in! As it is such a relaxed holiday we thought it would be the perfect day to do another Koryo First and so held the inaugural Koryo Tours Fun Run.

Preparing to start

Preparing to start

As ever at Koryo, we try to push the boundaries and develop new activities for tourists and try to open up new destinations. With football, volleyball, cricket, cycling and even Ultimate Frisbee under our belts, a run seemed like the next logical step. Pyongyang has an annual marathon so the DPRK is no stranger to competitive running, however, they had never heard of the Fun Run concept before and this would be the first one to take place.

The original route that was agreed on was to be a 5km run from the Ryanggang Hotel on the outskirts of the city, through Sports Street (a collection of stadiums built for the 1989 World Festival of Youth and Students) and along Kwangbok Street, past the circus and finishing up opposite the huge Kwangbok Street supermarket (incidentally, one of the last places to be visited by the North Korean Leader Kim Jong Il before his death). When I was on a tour there last November, I actually got a chance to test out the route with two of our Korean guides.

IMG_2897

Arrangements were all in place and excitement was building for the run. Some tourists had written to say they were in training and we at Koryo were worried about letting the side down so we scheduled in some last minute training in Beijing with HeyRunning!  A few days before the run, however, our partners discovered that a huge renovation project of the Sports Street had just started and, regardless of the fact that we thought it sounded like an adventure, according to the Koreans, a group of tourists running through Army Construction Workers’ Barracks was not going to happen!

IMG_2881
So the route was duly changed and at 7am on a bright and sunny May Day morning, a group approximately 50 tourists assembled at the old site of the US Spyship Pueblo ready to start the run along the Taedong River. We were over the moon about this new route as it is a much more central location and passes some iconic spots in Pyongyang such as the Juche Tower.

Construction workers on their way to the building site

Construction workers on their way to the building site

There was a nice mix of those who ran seriously – completing the run in just over 20 minutes – and those who preferred to take a more leisurely pace, walking along the riverside, relishing in the relative freedom that this event afforded! Many locals were out at that time – some cyclists, some early morning exercisers, a few groups of labourers off to the construction site (you don’t get a holiday if you’re a builder it seems!) – all were rather bemused to see groups of foreigners running/walking at various different paces in the beautiful morning sunshine.

Bringing up the rear!

Bringing up the rear!

The end of the route was Kim Il Sung Square and once everybody had reached the finish line we did a group lap of honour around the Square. The event was a success and all – the participants and the organizers – were pleased with how it turned out and we hope to do more events like this in the future.

The participants

The participants

The Fun Run also had a fundraising aspect. Each participant was asked to donate EUR 20 and this will be used to buy powdered milk – a very precious and necessary commodity – for an orphanage in Nampo. Through the participants and some additional sponsorship from non-participating groups, the Fun Run has raised just over EUR 2000 which is an incredible sum. We, and the orphanage, are very grateful to all who contributed.

The end of the run

The end of the run